Imagine a sushi haven so beloved that its closure sparked a two-year culinary drought in south London. That's Zaibatsu, the cult Japanese fusion restaurant that's finally back after a bitter landlord dispute. But here's where it gets controversial: can it recapture the magic in a new location, with higher rents forcing slightly pricier dishes?
Zaibatsu wasn't just a restaurant; it was an experience. Tucked away on Trafalgar Road in Greenwich since 2003, its unassuming launderette exterior belied the vibrant chaos within. Think generous sushi sets under £20, featuring melt-in-your-mouth crab rolls and tuna nigiri, alongside London favorites like crispy prawn tempura and spicy chicken gyozas for under a tenner. It was affordable Japanese and pan-Asian cuisine at its finest, a secret gem known only to those in the know.
Then, in January last year, the unthinkable happened. The lease wasn't renewed, and Zaibatsu vanished, leaving a trail of heartbroken foodies in its wake.
Fast forward nearly two years, and founder and chef Teck Sung Ong (known in the UK as Dickson Ong) is ready to reignite the flame. He's found a new home on Woolwich Road in Charlton, another intimate BYOB space. Ong, a Malaysian chef with a background in Malaysian, Cantonese, and Japanese cuisine, is eager to welcome back his loyal customers.
"It was heartbreaking to close," Ong admits. "We had such a dedicated following. But I'm thrilled to be back, even if it means adjusting prices slightly due to higher rents. The essence of Zaibatsu remains – the same pan-Asian menu, the same passion for fresh fish from Billingsgate, and the same commitment to making exceptional sushi as affordable as possible."
And this is the part most people miss: Zaibatsu, despite its cult status, never received a review from a national restaurant critic. Will its reopening finally bring it the wider recognition it deserves? With dishes like the £4.50 sea bass nigiri, the £8 "tuna sunkiss," and the fiery salmon momiji with ponzu and jalapeno, it's hard to imagine it staying under the radar for long.
Classic favorites like katsu duck, Malaysian chicken curry, and prawn kung-po are back, alongside the legendary house dynamite fried noodles – a spicy symphony of prawns, squid, fishcakes, and shredded chicken.
Zaibatsu's return is more than just a restaurant reopening; it's a testament to the power of passion and community. But will the slightly higher prices deter its loyal fanbase? And can it maintain its cult status in a new location? Only time will tell. One thing's for sure: the sushi scene in south London just got a whole lot more exciting. What do you think? Will you be visiting the new Zaibatsu? Let us know in the comments!
