Preparing lemongrass was one of the first chores Nite Yun, chef and owner of Oakland’s critically acclaimed Nyum Bai, performed in her mother’s kitchen. Though Yun estimates that lemongrass is found in 95% of Cambodian cooking, give or take, the celebrated aromatic is nonetheless something of an ornery character.
Releasing the fragrant, lightly floral oils from its woody stalk and bulb requires everything from peeling and chopping to smashing and pounding. Sure, it’s work, but don’t be intimidated. If Yun could master lemongrass back in elementary school, you’ll do just fine.
What is lemongrass?
As its name suggests, lemongrass is a grass with botanical origins that stretch across South and Southeast Asia, from India and Sri Lanka to Indonesia and the Philippines. Also called Malabar grass, Cochin grass, or fever grass among many other names, lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) grows in large bushy clumps. Its stalks are woody and pale green with bulbous lighter-colored bases that are somewhat reminiscent of green onions. Used whole, chopped, or pummeled into a paste, lemongrass adds a light but complex flavor and aroma—simultaneously lemony (hence the name), gingery, and floral—to sauces, soups, and meats.
To make this sauce, hot oil is poured over finely chopped lemongrass, ginger, and scallions.
In some parts of the world, lemongrass is also treasured for its health benefits. When brewed into a tea, the plant is considered an immunity-boosting treatment for a wide variety of ailments including gastrointestinal distress, fever, and asthma.
Where can you find it?
Lemongrass comes in a few different forms, including dried and frozen, but as with most aromatics, the fresh stalks are the most potent and versatile. “I always prefer fresh lemongrass as the natural oils bring so much flavor and complexity to dishes,” says Gil Payumo, chef at Filipino fusion restaurant Señor Sisig in San Francisco. Fresh lemongrass can be easily found at Asian grocery stores, and some less specialized markets have started to carry it in recent years—I can get lemongrass at my local farmers market.
Dried lemongrass, sold as whole sections of the stalk, sliced pieces, or powder, can be found in the spice or herb section at Asian groceries and many larger markets as well as online. You can also buy the stalks and bulbs frozen.
How can you use it?
In South and Southeast Asian cooking, lemongrass commonly conspires with ingredients like garlic, galangal (and/or ginger), cilantro, Thai basil, shallots, lime leaves, and coconut milk to create bold, complex flavors.
To prepare lemongrass, start by peeling the stiff outer leaves away from the stalk to reveal the slightly softer underlayers. Slice the grass in two spots, about half an inch from the root and approximately three inches up, where the whitish color begins to turn green.
